It was five o'clock in the afternoon on September 17, and everything seemed set to kick off another Milan Fashion Week. After New York and London, the Italian city is the next stop on the launch of trends for the next spring / summer season 2020. In this edition, United Colors of Benetton was honored to open another packed week of fashion shows in Milan.
Outside the parade venue, he already felt the bustle of these events: guests, the press, and, of course, in a Benetton parade, several people in brightly colored clothing that let themselves be photographed. The setting chosen was the Cozzi Pool, a 1930s architectural building with a lot of history. Inside, the catwalk was designed in a U shape around the pool and even the benches for the guests respected the theme. With music in the air and spotlights aimed at the deep blue pool, the first people on the scene were seven swimmers, with rainbow-shaped swimsuits, who dived into the pool, swam to the opposite end and so set the tone. to the beginning of the presentation.
The collection, for women and men, signed by creator Jean-Charles de Castelbajac is called Wave of color, the wave of colors and was inspired by the world of the seas: sea, water and sailing world interpreted as a journey. the most characteristic Mediterranean ports, from Saint-Tropez to Hydra. This imagination has translated into a selection of cultured pieces (mariniére, fitted jacket, pullover, sweatshirts) with simple lines because Benetton claims that it creates for a "genderless, ageless, cosmopolitan and global audience" always with the quality of materials as strong bet. This is the second collection from the Moroccan / French designer (see first here) who became artistic director of the Italian brand in 2018. And although the show started simple in shapes and colors (dresses, t-shirts, straight pants ), soon developed and showed all the elements that underlie the Italian brand's DNA.
Benetton's bold color palette was complemented by some pastel shades (which the designer already calls Pastel-Bajac), which played an equally important role in the construction of the collection, as well as the poudré tones (also classic of the brand). and a diverse range of shades of blue, made with natural mineral inks, and as a tribute to denim (another key element of Benetton DNA).
Looks with blocks of color and patterns with wide stripes and large flowers filled the catwalk in a good mood. The show's latest looks were a tribute to Oliviero Toscani and translated into maxi-print t-shirts from the advertising campaigns the photographer signed for United Colors of Benetton and became iconic. Castelbajac justified in a statement from the brand: "I want to create a moving show to show even the youngest the explosive character of Oliviero's work, totally in tune with the brand's DNA." Toscani can see the tribute live because he was sitting in the front row of the parade, next to Luciano Benetton, one of the founders of the Treviso brand, who at 84 did not want to miss the event.
© Jean-Charles de Castelbajac
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