NEW YORK —
Somehow, he does it almost every time, and on Tuesday designer Marc Jacobs did it again: he improved the game when it came to closing New York Fashion Week with a jolt of creative energy, vision and enthusiasm. .
This time, Jacobs' vision included not only models (almost 90 of them) wearing ingenious and inventive clothes, but more than 50 dancers, choreographed by veteran contemporary dancer Karole Armitage. With the dancers and models writhing, marching and even running across the huge wooden floor of the Park Avenue Armory, and the audience trying to figure out where to look, it is no wonder that many have lost the ironic surprise that Jacobs caused: a special appearance appearance from the catwalk of pop star Miley Cyrus, wearing a black bralette and black pants and gloves up to the elbow and carrying a zebra print jacket.
Jacobs, who always receives the final hours of Fashion Week, called this show "Chaos and Form".
In a printed statement delivered to the guests, he wrote that he was inspired "by the faded image of a disappearing New York that prevails – now foreign and exotic in its extinction, forever mythical and chic with its beauty, promise, shine and sand".
He said he wanted to contrast with his last show, a profusion of fantastical colors and drawings that ended with him spinning and dancing from the stage to "Dream a Little Dream", sung by Mama Cass. "As a departure from the extravagance of last season … this collection emphasizes restraint, the quality of fabrics, the brand and proportion, valuing simplicity and timelessness," he wrote.
The guests entered the dark, cavernous arsenal and found chairs arranged around small round tables, as if they were in a nightclub.
The show started with a single spotlight on the bare floor. Then came the choreographer Armitage, 65, artistic director of Armitage GONE! Dance that was called "punk dancer", dressed only in black dance clothes. She soon gave up the stage to a phalanx of models, the first group dressed from head to toe in a color: bright yellow, baby pink, brown or brown or white. They marched purposefully across the stage. Suddenly, a group of dancers appeared, some dressed only in underwear, with gloves or long heels.
As the models moved from side to side in the audience, the dancers squirmed and waved; it looked like a chaotic urban scene. Gradually, the clothes became more elegant. Model Gigi Hadid appeared in a white leather suit, white ankle socks and black heels with a red cap. Karlie Kloss, supermodel and judge of "Project Runway", wore a long and elegant white skirt and a white long-sleeved blouse.
A model wore what looked like a tangle of red ribbons on her head. There were sequined mini dresses in the 60s style and a look-alike by Jackie Kennedy, in a long black sequined dress with a white elbow-length cloak and gloves. There were two striking dresses – one red and one white – that looked like they were made of sewn silk roses.
At the end of the performance, the dancers moved en masse to the audience, spinning and spinning between tables. Meanwhile, the models gathered in a row across the stage. Suddenly, Jacobs appeared behind them, pushing his way through two models to stand and face the audience.
And then he didn't dance or spin. He just tapped his right foot, and the lights went out.