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Italy here so close

by ace
Italy here so close

If there is a sin that we are proud of is to eat with gluttony. But that only makes sense in some kitchens, and Italian, like Portuguese, is one of those glorious examples. It is in one of the most beautiful squares of Lisbon, this new Italian with soul of French bistro, which seems a contradiction, but it is not. Parisian sophistication joins with the Italian passion for food – a menu that calls for sharing and meals without an appointment.

Elegant without exaggeration, Visconti has just opened in Chiado with such a French touch, coming from the owners Guy-David Gharbi and Marc Laufer, who decided to honor their Italian director of choice here. The cuisine wants to be a taste of what is being eaten in Italy from north to south, from fresh ingredients to dishes that go beyond pizza (delicious by the way and following Neapolitan style). Our lunch begins in the best way, with a rosemary foccaccia that crumbles in your mouth and it's a crime not to get wet in Frescobaldi Laudemio's award-winning Marchesi olive oil. At the entrances – we warn that it will be almost impossible to stay for one – besides the burrata and mozzarella, it is worth trying the carpaccio with crunchy capers (they are lightly passed through the pan, enough to add delicious layers of flavor) and Portobello mushrooms with Parmigiano Reggiano, intense but irresistible for those who like these two ingredients. Among forkfuls, a guanciale-covered focaccia, a lighter, smoked bacon, is a good surprise for those who are not usually a fan of over-intense flavors.

This is followed by the difficult task of choosing between the aforementioned pizzas and the pasta, always cooked al dente, as it should be. Classics with a contemporary twist are preferred here, so there are possibilities such as Margherita, Primavera or Pugliese, not to mention Calzoni (Classic, Burrata and Truffa). The pasta ranges from carbonara made with spaghetti, egg cream, guanciale and parmesan to very roman Caccio e Pepe, a simple but delicious linguine with pesto and parmesan. From the open kitchen to the restaurant room there are still delicate gnocchi, which are not yet part of the menu but can also be made with guanciale and low-temperature cooked egg yolk. Between land and sea, there is nothing quite like venturing in, especially if you decide to share: there are octopus tentacles with linguini nero, the best of both worlds combined on the plate, or the Tuscan entrecôte, for lovers of a good piece of meat. . As you could not miss on an Italian table, the department of sweets is not left behind, between tiramisu, pana cotta or the dulce de leche – ideal to take to the terrace and watch Lisbon pass.

What? Visconti Where? Largo Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro, 18, Lisbon When? Every day from 12h00 to 00h. Reservations: 213 461 512

. (tagsToTranslate) Italy (t) Largo Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro (t) 18 (t) Lisbon (t) lifestyle and leisure (t) gastronomy (t) manufacturing

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