Puberty is a delicate age. Hormonal changes, exacerbation of sebaceous glands, enlarged pores, evident pimples, emotions running high… And everything that goes on inside contains an associated psychological factor, inevitably reflecting on self-esteem and confidence. Visits to the dermatologist are frequent, time-consuming topical treatments overlap, supplements are included and the healing process is expected to be generous and effective enough not to leave marks on the face. But the story doesn’t end there.
What many dermatologists leave out is that puberty may not have such a peaceful end and that hormones and genetics are not the only culprits of unbalanced skin. Entering the 20s can happen with a more balanced skin, but the excess oil will probably last for many more years due to hormonal fluctuations and, in parallel, the consequences of the trials of the previous decade are beginning to manifest. The scars, the small dilatations of the blood vessels or spots become visible over time. And the truth is that oily skins can also be dehydrated. In fact, cutaneous dehydration is a changeable condition that cuts across all skin types and ages. On the reverse side of the medal, the questions are not exactly simpler. As the skin is the largest organ in the body, it is natural that most women (and men) have some skin condition that they would like to see treated and corrected, regardless of their typology. Dry skins struggle with issues such as rosacea or psoriasis, sensitivity is increasingly recorded by specialists, as are eczema, blemishes and signs. And the list could go on.
According to the American Academy of Dermatology, about 85 million people suffer from skin diseases in the United States, a term that ranges from the mildest to the most serious conditions. And for each problem there are different solutions. In fact, today we face more skin problems than 30 years ago, when the perfumery shelves had little more than one cream for each age. Oily skin, although more prone to younger age groups, can also belong to a 40-year-old woman and sensitivity can start from an early age, resulting from inflammation in the skin of the youngest. A wrinkle can be visible at the age of 25 while for others it only becomes obvious after the age of 35 and, in fact, depending on the hormones and lifestyle, the stages of the skin can be very different as we get older.
These issues are of increasing concern and many result from new threats to skin quality. In an increasingly polluted planet, the consequences of exposure to polluting particles and electronic devices have agitated the scientific community, being pointed out as one of the causes for the increase in skin problems. And, as the research progresses, increasingly effective responses are emerging. Despite being increasingly present, the question is not exactly new. In the early 1990s, Clarins launched its first antipollution complex, warning of a growing problem that has only recently grown in size.
Turnover of 30
In large cities there are more women getting pregnant between 30 and 34 years old than in any other age group. It is true that this stage of life can add a beautiful glow to the skin, resulting from a healthy increase in the production of estrogen and progesterone, but there are other consequences that may be less sympathetic. Regardless of pregnancy, in this decade the skin begins to become drier and lose its luminosity. The “freshness” of 20 years dissipates as the levels of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid decrease and as a consequence of the loss of thickness of the epidermis. Rosacea and sensitivity are problems that can intensify at this time.
What to do:
Put the foam cleaners aside, use an essence as the basis of your hydration process and avoid all potentially irritating agents for the skin. Make weekly exfoliations to normalize the skin protection barrier and stimulate cell renewal. Bet on ingredients such as kojic acid and vitamin C, increase sun protection and choose retinoids to reduce wrinkles. Protect your eyes and make a weekly mask.
From anti-UV to anti-pollution
UVB, UVA, blue light, infrared … The light sources that damage the skin are no longer limited to those coming from the sun. Starting with these, it is proven that long UVA rays are responsible for 95% of the damage caused to the skin. They are the ones that are present throughout the year, whether it’s sunny or not, and at any latitude. Add to the equation the UVB and infrared rays, more recently identified as those that weaken the skin’s first line of defense, that is, its hydration barrier. Recent research shows that these rays from the sun also contribute to the aging of the skin, creating free radicals that can destroy existing collagen and decrease the skin’s natural ability to restore it. Pollution is another factor to be taken into account, especially knowing that two thirds of the world population live in cities and that, according to the World Health Organization, 92% breathe poor quality air. A study published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology compared women who lived in urban and rural areas over a period of 24 years, and concluded that the former revealed more spots and wrinkles. Knowing that the sun is not the only responsible for these signs of aging, it was quickly found that pollution is one of the great enemies of the skin. Like? Some polluting particles are up to 20 times smaller than the pores, easily penetrating the skin. This particular situation can be prevented with an adequate and daily cleaning and with the use of antioxidants.
The digital aging
It may be even more shocking to know that indoor air is five to ten times more polluted than outdoor air. Paints, maintenance products, appliances, candles and lights from digital devices are enemies of the skin that have been neglected in recent years, but science has more recently focused on the subject, finding solutions to protect the skin from this threat. Excessive exposure to blue light from screens of smartphones, tablets and televisions is proven to be linked to the acceleration of skin aging by triggering its oxidative stress. Add the “new” wrinkles of millennials, such as those on the neck (due to excessive concentration on mobile phones), and we know that it is time to look for a specific product. There are more and more blue anti-light shields on the market that protect against indoor and outdoor pollution. Look for them and combine them with facial yoga movements to train your face and neck muscles.
What is blue light?
Emitted by the LED lights of the screens, according to Nadine Pernodet, scientific director of Estée Lauder, “blue light is part of visible light”. And he adds: “It penetrates deeply. Its negative effects on the skin are not reflected during the day, but at night. It disturbs the natural rhythms, decreases the production of melatonin and the quality of sleep, which directly interferes with the quality of skin.”
Ban your TVs, tablets and iPhones from your room to avoid looking at screens before going to sleep. Apply specific night products on the face rich in antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and detoxifying ingredients.
Hormonal changes, stress and a less balanced lifestyle can cause imbalances that are immediately visible on the skin. Healing treatments and peels are the perfect solutions to even out the complexion when it is dull and uneven. At home or in the office. Andrea Hollander, trainer at Mesoestetic, stresses the importance of investigating the application product at home: “There are several products with a peeling action (which promote the removal of dead cells on the skin surface) that may have granules (mechanical or physical exfoliants), be enzymatic (with enzymes bromelain and papain) and which are softer, as well as chemical peels with low concentrations (superficial). ” Peels performed in the office usually have a different depth of skin, depending on the purpose of the treatment performed. Andrea Hollander says that one does not exclude the other: “We should use, once a week, a peeling product suitable for our skin type and condition. In this way we are removing dead cells, stimulating their renewal and the skin is more receptive to daily treatment products, enhancing results both at home and in the office. Performing peel cycles will always promote many benefits to maintain the rejuvenated aspect, make the skin more receptive to maintenance products, improve microcirculation and increase collagen synthesis. and elastin. ” It also warns that in cases of skin with acne the prescription may vary.
Attention to all beauty gurus: bee venom, Azorean colostrum and donkey milk are the ingredients of the new treatments at the Spa at the Ritz Four Seasons, in Lisbon. With the Ignae Skincare brand signature, the Hydration and Rejuvenation Facial is adapted to the needs of the skin type and will apply one of two facial masks: the Ignae signature mask with Bee and Clay Poison or the Mask …