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A fishing morning with chef Miguel Laffan and the Ambrósio brothers

by ace
A fishing morning with chef Miguel Laffan and the Ambrósio brothers

It's 10am on a Tuesday morning (by the way, the windiest day of this week) and there is a group of journalists in Cascais's Baía do Peixe waiting for a fishing boat. Challenged by chef Miguel Laffan, currently at the forefront of the Atlantic Bar & Restaurant, brothers José and Carlos Ambrósio are about to lead us to discover what the nets that threw in the sea less than 24 hours ago. Yes, it is officially a trip to fishing, but first there is a lesson about the fish that are on our coast: from sole (we learn that in this area there are legitimate, pink, rust, sand), the streak, the octopus, the purple-paw fish, the loup, the pout, the sapio (or rosy) – and the list goes on. As Carlos Ambrósio shows the fish, the curiosity to know what we will find will grow. Already at sea, the lesson continues. We learned how to pull the 400 meter nets, which are best suited for each type of fish (depending on what the fisherman wants to catch) and how to untangle the fish from the nets. If the first network has absolutely nothing in store for us, the second is a pleasant surprise – even for Carlos. Between sole, mackerel, small crabs and starfish (among other smaller fish, which are returned to the sea and caught by seagulls) the morning reserves two lobsters. "I only fish them once or twice a year," says Carlos, who begins to tell his story midway. "I have been fishing for 20 years, ten years professionally, and when I was younger I was fishing for addiction. I worked as a Public Security Police (I was in the Anticrime Brigade Unit) for 22 years until I decided to change my life." With an all but unconventional course, a charismatic personality and a comfortable at sea that makes us think that all his life worked aboard the "Blue Dragon", Carlos fishes, arranges and delivers the fish – and even has his own shop in Cascais, the From the sea to home.

Already back in the village of Cascais, and at a round table inside the InterContinental Estoril's restaurant, Atlântico Bar & Restaurante, the idea is to give primacy to coastal privilege as it comes from the sea. This is the premise of Miguel Laffan's new fall menu of the restaurant, which can be enjoyed in a Portugal menu (€ 25) where the flavors of the sea are enhanced by their mastery in haute cuisine. Entrees like fresh octopus salad, codfish fritters, shrimp fritters to eat with toast come to the table. This is the usual couverts of artisanal butters and beautiful olive oil, the famous Distintus, from the village of Campo de Víboras in Trás-os-Montes.

In the main dishes, the logic of seasonality is the same: the freshest fish is what will be cooked according to the preferences of each customer, with a choice of five dishes. A delightful example – and the dish we tasted after the fishery – are the panko breaded streak fillets with streak rice and clams – an unlikely combination that promises to surprise anyone who has more reservations about the choice of fish and its genuine taste. . To sweeten the experience, we end up with a compelling pudding abbot pudding with mango ice cream and the conversation extends in the afternoon, always staring at the sea, enjoying the pleasures of being on land.

The portugality menu is available from Monday to Friday, includes three starters to share, main course, dessert and drink.

Where? Hotel Intercontinental Estoril, Avenida Marginal 8023, Monte do Estoril When? From 12:30 to 15:30 and from 19:30 to 23h. Thursday to Saturday from 12.30 to midnight. Sunday from 12:30 to 23h. Reservations 21829104

(tagsToTranslate) Miguel Laffan (t) Fishing (t) InterContinental Estoril (t) Carlos Barbosa (t) Blue Dragon (t) Cascais (t) Sea (t) Fishing (t) Flounder (t) Streak ( t) Dishes (t) Gastronomy (t) Marer

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